Punta Crena, on Italy’s Ligurian coast, makes bottlings from both Vermentino and its freckled twin, Pigato. Even though the domaine vinifies these clonal variants the same way—aging them on their lees for four months—they emerge as distinct wines in the bottle. This impeccable Pigato is more aromatic and slightly richer, with more texture. Still, it is supremely crisp and mineral: an ideal representation of this coastal region and perfect for ocean fare.

—Tom Wolf